What happens when you mix the rich history and culture of Filipinos with their undeniable talent? You get a creative force that is not only transformative but also deeply inspiring.
Emanuel Gabriel Riñoza, a 23-year-old rising star in the local fashion scene, embodies these traits perfectly. With a keen eye for design and an unyielding passion for pushing creative boundaries, Riñoza’s journey into fashion isn’t just a personal pursuit—it’s a love letter to Filipino culture and a bold step towards international recognition.
Fresh off the runway from the latest episode of Drag Race Philippines, Riñoza’s latest creation—a stunning golden salakot-inspired gown—went viral, leaving audiences and judges alike in awe. The gown, worn by the show’s host Paolo Ballesteros, also known as Mama Pao, is more than just a fashion statement. It’s a testament to the power and beauty of Filipino craftsmanship, placing local designers like Riñoza in the global spotlight.
In an exclusive interview with Metroscene Mag, Riñoza shared the inspiration behind the gown, his design process, and what it means to represent Filipino culture in the high-fashion world.
What Made It to the Runway
Emanuel Gabriel Riñoza’s journey began long before the lights of the Drag Race Philippines stage ever shone on his work. From a young age, he was captivated by the glamorous worlds of pageantry and fashion, sparking a lifelong passion that led him to pursue a degree in Fashion Design and Technology at iACADEMY, where he graduated with the highest honors, Summa Cum Laude.
“What first drew my interest into fashion design is, aside from being a creative kid, pageantry and fashion reality shows like America’s Next Top Model and Project Runway really influenced me to aspire to the fashion industry,” Riñoza shares.
Now, as he builds his couture brand, Emanuel Riñoza, his designs carry the essence of global and local influences. Iconic figures like Bob Mackie, Schiaparelli, and John Galliano inspire his bold silhouettes and intricate, conceptual pieces that tell a story. Yet, Riñoza has carved out his own unique flair. His creations, like the golden salakot gown that graced the Drag Race Philippines runway, have become statement pieces, not just in their boldness but in how they reflect his deep respect for Filipino heritage while standing out on the global stage.
"My design aesthetic is conceptual, sexy, and expensive," he said. "I do like my designs to be a sort of art piece when it comes to the craft, like I am a sucker for intricate details. For me in those small details is where the language of the design comes from. When it comes to silhouette, I like to give a definition of sexiness by showing skin or doing a perfect hourglass silhouettes through corsetry. And when it comes to the vibe, I wanted my designs to translate like it’s one of a kind, something extra but still wearable."
The Golden Salakot: A Tribute to Filipino Culture
When tasked with creating a Filipiniana gown for Mama Pao on Drag Race Philippines, Emanuel Riñoza knew exactly what he wanted to achieve: a design that would honor Filipino heritage while making a bold, unforgettable statement. The result? A golden gown that reimagined the traditional salakot, a symbol of Filipino identity, but make it high fashion!
“I had three words in mind when I designed this look: iconic, Filipino, and drag,” Riñoza explains. “As my debut in Drag Race and a long-time fan of the show, I wanted my first look to grace the mainstage to be iconic, something that will be imprinted in the viewer’s minds forever. It’s really once in a blue moon to dress up the main character of the show and if you’ll do it, you have to do it your best."
Reflecting on his creative process, Riñoza says, when he was told by Mama Pao’s stylist to create a look for her on the mainstage, he immediately thought of those three words.
He continues, "Then I just came up with doing a cone bra detail in the bust because it was my bucket list as a designer to do something like that but I wasn’t just given a chance because the silhouette is kind of unusual and not that marketable to clients. So in my mind, this is my chance to do it. And then finishing off my design I just realized that cone bras really do look like salakots, so that is where the joint idea came from: a salakot as a hat and salakot as a bra. Which ticks the second word in my mind, something Filipino, as we all know that salakots are very much used in our country, especially in the native parts, mostly by farmers and other workers under the scorching heat of the sun."
The salakot, deeply symbolic to Filipinos, is something we associate with farmers and workers under the sun. Even Juan Dela Cruz wore it. and he wanted to bring that symbol to life in a way that felt polished, expensive, and high class.
" I wanted this look to fit the main event and the main objective of its purpose, but in a way that is more polished, expensive, and high class," he said.
The gown, adorned with intricate beadwork, shimmering fabric, and a unique cone bra detail resembling a salakot, perfectly captured Riñoza’s blend of heritage and haute couture. It was a daring design that paid off, instantly becoming a standout piece on the Drag Race runway.
“For me it’s one of the proudest moments in my life as a designer, " Riñoza shares. "I feel the adrenaline everyday, as the days progress I see my creation comes to life, and even myself I can’t believe I can do such things like that because for me, so far it’s my best work."
For Riñoza, Drag Race has always been about elevating the art of drag, and with this look, he aimed to push the boundaries of how Filipino culture could be represented. “Ever since I’m watching Dragrace since the US franchise, and now the Philippine franchise, it’s really a joy for me to see drag artists who express their craft in a way that is campy and expressive. In that way, I also wanted to elevate the level of drag through serving high fashion and class.,” he concludes.
The golden salakot gown didn’t just make a splash on the runway—it became a testament to how traditional Filipino symbols could be reimagined for a global audience.
The Golden Journey
Creating a gown of this magnitude requires more than just inspiration; it demands technical skill, patience, and a deep understanding of the craft. Riñoza recalls the painstaking process of bringing his vision to life—from the initial sketches to the final fitting.
“ For 18 days , I did everything inside my small room, as a one-man team I did the patterns, cutting the fabric, construction, draping, details and beadwork, exactly everything,” Riñoza says. “When doing the draping and detail process, it’s really the most exciting part for me because it is very visual like it’s the statement of the piece. Then adding the intricate beadworks with the stones and crystals, it really seals the whole look, it is where the piece becomes more alive. ”
When Mama Pao first tried on the gown during the fitting, Riñoza knew he had created something special. “Then comes the final fitting, when Mama Pao fits the look, I’m kind of at peace knowing how it will turn out well, I’m that confident. It’s really one of the proudest moments when I finally see the whole vision I have in mind and it was translated so well, to the tea,” he shares.
A Love Letter to Filipino Fashion
Riñoza’s work on Drag Race Philippines isn’t just a personal milestone; it’s a glimpse into the future of Filipino fashion. He’s part of a new generation of designers who are passionate about showcasing Filipino talent on the world stage.
While the salakot gown was a defining moment for Riñoza, it’s clear that this is just the beginning of his journey. With aspirations to one day design for the international stahe and to continue creating pieces that celebrate Filipino heritage. Truely, Emanuel Riñoza is a name to watch in the world of fashion.
And as for young designers looking to make their mark in the industry, Riñoza has one piece of advice: stay true to yourself.
“My advice would always be true to yourself. Authenticity comes a long way, especially in a field that is very competitive, embracing your own strength and trusting your own judgment really is an advantage. We’re not here to conform, rather we must dare to be different.”
As Riñoza continues to rise, his work serves as a reminder that Filipino talent is not just worthy of local recognition—it’s ready for the global stage. With designers like him leading the way, the future of Filipino fashion is looking brighter—and more GOLDEN—than ever.
